Friday, December 18, 2009

Goin’ on a Bike Ride, Gonna’ do some Sightseein'

Another foreword.  I have only now realized I can make comments publicly available, even to those without accounts with blogger.  Feel free to leave comments, it’s great to know people are reading, even with my inconsistent writing schedule!


Getting up at a reasonable hour in Amsterdam (9ish), I decided to try hitchhiking once again in the friendly country of the Netherlands. Going a reasonably short distance, only 200km to Rotterdam should be easy! There was a spot on the edge of the city which was supposed to be good for hitching in the direction of Rotterdam, and I caught a tram all the way there. I noticed that the ramp I was going to thumb from was a feeder to a ring highway, circling the entire city, but hey, if experienced hitchhikers are having good luck here, surely I can manage something. An hour of waiting later I was disheartened and a more than a bit cold. Passing drivers didn’t even look very encouraging, not offering the usual looks of apology. Knowing the train fare was only €12, not knowing any better hitching spots, and without the resources to do more research, I walked to the nearby train station and caught a train to Rotterdam. That my first attempt at hitchhiking in Europe failed is a bit disappointing, but I am convinced that with a better city map, a little more patience, and perhaps a little more experience, I would have caught a ride to Rotterdam. Luckily, the train was cheap though and I was just happy to be safely in Rotterdam. From the central station in Rotterdam, I rented a bike and successfully navigated Rotterdam by bike with an 18kg backpack while reading a map; no small feat for a tourist!  On my journey I was wowed by the modern architecture all around me, the copious green spaces, and excellent transport systemThe modern city of Rotterdam at dusk from the EuroMast (Click to enlarge) which mixed tram, subway, bus, and extensive bike lanes. I easily found my hostel, the ideally located ROOM Rotterdam, and checked in, delightfully surprised with its homey feel and friendly staff. My dorm room was decorated with the logos of many worldwide shipping companies, a true reflection of Rotterdam’s industry. Close to the North Sea and with access to the River Rhine, Rotterdam is Europe’s main shipping centre, handling imports and exports for the entire market. Worldwide, it is the 2nd busiest port after only Shanghai, and is up there on the list of largest ports as well. Standing on the edge of the river you notice there are always at least a few ships laden with cargo of some sort in view. Quickly getting a feel for the city, I almost immediately decided that this was a city I could see myself living in, or spending more time. At the tourist information centre, I picked up a card for Rotterdam like those in many cities, offering you discounts and savings in the city. Euromast itself at dusk (click to enlarge)In Rotterdam however, the card/coupons don’t expire for three months, and the whole package only cost €5. Map in hand, I biked around the city, exploring block after block of modern architecture, a city which was obviously bustling, but managing to stay clean, attractive, and tourist friendly. As dusk fell I ventured to  Euromast, Rotterdam’s answer to the CN Tower. Built in 1969, like everything in Rotterdam it has been maintained well enough that it is showing few signs of its age. Unfortunately the wind was quite high when I visited and the highest viewing platform was closed off, but I got a reduced rate to go to the top of the main tower (further reduced by the Rotterdam Card). After getting some great photos (if I do say so myself) I left the tower in the dark of night, and biked around the city some more, enjoying the sights around me before heading back to the hostel. After a day full of biking, sleep came easily.

Sunday the 15th, I decided to take advantage of the easy self propelled transport and share some of the city with people at home. Holding my camera in front of me, I snapped a long series (700+)of photos as I biked the city’s recommended walking tour of the city. I plan to create a video of it, but haven’t had the time yet, especially whereas my computer is a little too weak for such a task. The city isn’t geared towards tourism as many other cities are; with few historic sights/sites the city is happy just to keep at work in the shipping business. With few exceptions, every building in the city centre is newer than 60 years, having been the target of a massive Erasmusbrug, a striking example of the modern architecture which characterises Rotterdam (click to enlarge) German bombing campaign in WWII designed to wipe the city from the face of the earth so that the German troops could quickly and easily take the port for their own use. A line was drawn around the city and it was determined by Hitler that everything inside the line should be flattened. Today this line is marked by old fashioned street lights with red lights, called the fire line. Following this line, it is easy to see how accurate the bombing was, old buildings on one side, new on the other. Committed to a modern image, Rotterdam’s new buildings are all designed with care, and usually hold some tribute to the city’s history or strength in the shipping industry. Bike ride around the city complete, and thoroughly loving biking in a completely flat city, I decided on visiting the Maritime Museum to get the Dutch take on the history of the seas. The exhibits are hugely interactive, and while much of it is geared towards children, it can be a great learning experience to an adult with an open mind; just try not to be bothered by the flocks of children running around you
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One cannot visit The Netherlands, especially Holland without seeing the world famous windmills. But a quick side note before I get to that. Many people refer to the Netherlands as a whole as “Holland”. Holland is in fact two regions of the Netherlands, North Holland and South Holland and only “Holland” technically refers to these two regions only. It’s a mistake I made before I learned the difference in Holland, but one which doesn’t really bug the locals who are used to it from tourists. But I digress; back to the windmills. The postcard perfect windmills at Kinderdijk (click o enlarge) Vital for the maintenance of the dikes in the Netherlands, the traditional octagonal, thatched windmills were vital for keeping one side of the dikes wet, and the other dry (or at least regulating water levels on either side). Roughly an hour’s bike ride out of Rotterdam is the postcard town of Kinderdijk (literally “Child’s dike”) with the Netherland’s highest concentration of old fashioned windmills, all built in the 1740’s. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the windmills sit serenely at the edge of the dikes, some in operation, and others undergoing restoration and maintenance, but all lending to the picture perfect surroundings. To get there one must bike approximately 1 hour along very well laid out bike paths, and take two ferries, a grand total of €1.30 to ride. After biking the scenic paths beside the windmills for a good hour, I returned to the sleepy town centre (population is under 10,000) to have dinner at a local pub. Disappointingly, the pub is less local than I thought, set up mainly for the huge influx of tourists in the summer months. The food was home cooked and hearty however, and I enjoyed my only major expense of the day to its fullest before catching a fast ferry all the way back to Rotterdam, preferring not to bike in the dark. The fast ferry takes around 20 minutes and costs only €4. In retrospect, it would probably be worth it to take the ferry just for the view in daytime.

Rotterdam's past surrounded by it's present; the historical headquarters of the Holland America Line surrounded by modern architecture (click to enlarge) On the 17th, I biked the short distance to the SPIDO dock on the waterfront for a cruise on the river, again taking advantage of my Rotterdam Card, paying only €7 for an hour and a half on the river. The cruise heads upstream, exploring the port area of the city. A recorded commentary spouts information in four languages, but is highly educational and not as frustrating as it might sound. One can enjoy the sights from the top deck (a bit chilly at this time of the year), the panoramic deck enclosed with windows, or from the bottom level featuring a full bar and entertainment. I’m not quite sure why there was entertainment on a ship for cruising a river, but I guess the grumpy non-sightseers need something to do as well. Feeling a bit tired, I biked around the city some before returning the bike to the rental store in what was a sad, but unceremonious break up. After heading back to the hostel on foot, I took another excursion into the free food bin and enjoyed a relaxing evening, while quietly laughing at the seemingly permanently disoriented staff. I was later informed that almost all the staff are “huge stoners” and are usually at least a little high. Hey, to each their own.

The port of Rotterdam at night (click to enlarge)

My stay in Rotterdam was excellent, I thoroughly enjoyed the modernity of the city and the ‘hard at work but still kickin back’ attitude of the city. While it is a city dedicated to business, the locals are very relaxed and almost always have a smile to share. It is certainly a city I could live in if I had to move away, but here’s for hoping the Canadian government doesn’t find out about my little secret and kick me out! (Joke people...it’s a joke...)

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