Hitchhiking to Te Anau proved – as usual – to be terrifically easy. Lance (my dive instructor) offered to drive me to the edge of town, and gratefully I accepted, getting my thumb out around 11AM. I waited the usual 10-15 minutes before being picked up by a young German man, touring New Zealand on his own. He was heading all the way to Milford Sound and stopping in Te Anau on the way. The ride up was uneventful as we admired the changing scenery as we entered the Fordland. I told him stories of my travel (as is expected of a hitchhiker) and he shared some of his own experiences in New Zealand. He explained how his job as an architectural engineer affects the way he experiences tourist attractions. We all experience the world in a different way based on our skills, knowledge and hobbies, unknowingly living in a different world from everyone else. I tend to look for the mechanical, seeking a process which I can examine until understood or finding someone who can explain it for me. Architects seek out architecture; designers focus on design; engineers strive to understand the workings behind the ordinary and extraordinary. An attraction is interesting to many people on many levels, and talking with this man I felt myself wishing that for one day I could see some of the same attractions but through the eyes another. I was left wondering how drastically the experience and knowledge of another person affects how an attraction is experienced.
I was dropped off in the middle of Te Anau with little in the way of a plan, and even less in the way of expectations. I was expecting a few nights in a quiet town with little to do but write and enjoy the solitude and the break from Queenstown. I got what I expected, but was tremendously happy with my choice of towns. In Te Anau I found a sleepy but cheerful little town on the edge of the Fiordland; the gateway for thousands of tourists weekly on their way to the dramatic sounds in the west. I wandered into an information centre for information on accommodation and activities in the area. I knew there were cruises, but they are expensive and with the exception of bungee jumping, scuba diving, skydiving and canyoning, I have tried very hard to keep to a strict budget. 
But what is money for except spending, and what is vacation for except enjoying extraordinary things, and I figured I could afford to spend just a little on a nice cruise. There are two companies running on Doubtful sound, the less cruised of the Doubtful Sound/Milford Sound pair. Real Journeys runs the Fiordland Explorer, taking 70-some people on overnight cruises for around $250. Fiordland Expeditions runs the smaller MV Tutoko, taking 10 people on overnight cruises in the same area. My sister and her fiancé Paul had done the latter and gave rave reviews for the personal and refined quality of the experience – for anyone who can afford the $500NZD ($375CAD) that is. $250 was looking much more appealing and I had told myself while coming to Te Anau that I would not spend $500 on a one night cruise. But then the information staff told me they could drop it $450, the off season rate. Well, I just can’t resist a deal, and with the additional promise of a pickup from Te Anau by the company co-owner, I signed up for the cruise the following night. I had told myself I wouldn’t, but I left the information centre quite happy that I would be experiencing some of the finer points of the Fiordland experience. I settled in at the extremely impressive Te Anau Lakeview Holiday Park and got on the internet for some contact with home. Back in touch with everyone, I set off for the town and picked the lovely Naturally Fiordland cafe for late afternoon coffee then supper. Here I settled in for a few hours of typing; working to catch up on my blog. Te Anau was a very relaxing place, where the hurried stride of rushed tourists has little effect on the carefree residents. I picked up a bottle of wine for the cruise before heading back to my campsite, excitedly heading to the beach with my camera as the sunset promised to present some dramatic scenes in the dark clouds above.
But what is money for except spending, and what is vacation for except enjoying extraordinary things, and I figured I could afford to spend just a little on a nice cruise. There are two companies running on Doubtful sound, the less cruised of the Doubtful Sound/Milford Sound pair. Real Journeys runs the Fiordland Explorer, taking 70-some people on overnight cruises for around $250. Fiordland Expeditions runs the smaller MV Tutoko, taking 10 people on overnight cruises in the same area. My sister and her fiancé Paul had done the latter and gave rave reviews for the personal and refined quality of the experience – for anyone who can afford the $500NZD ($375CAD) that is. $250 was looking much more appealing and I had told myself while coming to Te Anau that I would not spend $500 on a one night cruise. But then the information staff told me they could drop it $450, the off season rate. Well, I just can’t resist a deal, and with the additional promise of a pickup from Te Anau by the company co-owner, I signed up for the cruise the following night. I had told myself I wouldn’t, but I left the information centre quite happy that I would be experiencing some of the finer points of the Fiordland experience. I settled in at the extremely impressive Te Anau Lakeview Holiday Park and got on the internet for some contact with home. Back in touch with everyone, I set off for the town and picked the lovely Naturally Fiordland cafe for late afternoon coffee then supper. Here I settled in for a few hours of typing; working to catch up on my blog. Te Anau was a very relaxing place, where the hurried stride of rushed tourists has little effect on the carefree residents. I picked up a bottle of wine for the cruise before heading back to my campsite, excitedly heading to the beach with my camera as the sunset promised to present some dramatic scenes in the dark clouds above.As my tiny watch alarm chimed at 7:30 in the morning, something in my mind told me – even before I was fully conscious – there’s something important you have to get up for. My subconscious mind prevailed and I woke; packing and collecting my bottle of wine perfectly on time for pick up. Whew. I met Mandy who drove me along with a fifty-something American man and his decade (or so) younger Latvian wife to Manapouri, the departure point for the cruise. We met the rest of the 10 people we would be sharing the night with and enjoyed small talk. The group turned out to be as diverse as might be expected from such an excursion. There was a fifty-something British man (Dave) and his Kiwi wife; the previously mentioned Morgan and his wife Olga; forty-something Greek Costos, and his (I assume) German partner; and there was a group of three female backpackers, Patricia, Ricky, and Suzanne, all in their 20’s and from Switzerland, Germany, and the Netherlands respectively. Plus myself, we made ten guests from nine countries, covering early 20’s to late 50’s.
The cruise didn’t depart from Manapouri which is only a hopping off point towards the cruises. From here, we took a one hour cruise across Lake Manapouri to the Wilmot Pass, enjoying the scenery on the lake, close to what we would soon be enjoying on Doubtful Sound. We admired the hydroelectric power station on the other side before hopping aboard a small bus for the 20km journey over the Wilmot Pass. 
The Wilmot Pass was created in the mid 60’s to facilitate the construction of the hydroelectric station, and at its summit enjoys the most stunning views of Doubtful Sound by car. In fact, it enjoys the only views of Doubtful Sound by car. The road is completely cut off from the rest of civilisation, and any vehicle which traverses the Pass must come in by boat. Finally meeting the Sound at Deep Cove, we were introduced to the MV Tutoko and her crew of two; skipper Sean, and chef Jason. Of course – as was later explained to us – they don’t have those official titles, and anyone working aboard the Tutoko is simply a crew member, regardless of their training and primary roles. This is enforced by their flexibility in the many things they do on board the boat, but technicalities aside, Sean was an experienced skipper, and Jason a professionally trained chef. After casting off, Sean and Jason explained how the next 24 hours would go. We were told to treat the Tutoko as home; with the exception of the crew quarters and engine room, we were free to wander and free to make requests for stops or destinations. Immediately after, Sean had the Tutoko motoring through the Sound and Jason got to work on his first creation while glasses of champagne were passed around. This was exactly the tone for the whole cruise, a relaxed experience with good food, good company, good crew, and good experiences. As everyone got to know each other a little better, the Tutoko went straight for the entrance to the Sound from the 
Tasman Sea, getting there after a lunch of pasta salad. Bottles of wine were opened and by the time the Tutoko made the entrance of the Sound, everyone was warmly acquainted. The Tasman Sea treated us with a colony of Sea Lions and choppy water from which we hastily retreated back to the calm of the Sound. As we broke out the fishing rods, Jason donned scuba gear and went under, reappearing ten minutes later with a bounty of crayfish for dinner. That job done, we got to our ‘duties’, enjoying some fishing off the bow of the Tutoko. Fishing in 50m water, we caught mostly a fish which I cannot remember the name of, well known in New Zealand for its bland flavour and thus not particularly favoured. Jason however, knew better, and enjoys it for its ability to work with other foods without dominating the plate. A blue cod was also caught, and after consulting charts, it was confirmed we were allowed to keep it.
The Wilmot Pass was created in the mid 60’s to facilitate the construction of the hydroelectric station, and at its summit enjoys the most stunning views of Doubtful Sound by car. In fact, it enjoys the only views of Doubtful Sound by car. The road is completely cut off from the rest of civilisation, and any vehicle which traverses the Pass must come in by boat. Finally meeting the Sound at Deep Cove, we were introduced to the MV Tutoko and her crew of two; skipper Sean, and chef Jason. Of course – as was later explained to us – they don’t have those official titles, and anyone working aboard the Tutoko is simply a crew member, regardless of their training and primary roles. This is enforced by their flexibility in the many things they do on board the boat, but technicalities aside, Sean was an experienced skipper, and Jason a professionally trained chef. After casting off, Sean and Jason explained how the next 24 hours would go. We were told to treat the Tutoko as home; with the exception of the crew quarters and engine room, we were free to wander and free to make requests for stops or destinations. Immediately after, Sean had the Tutoko motoring through the Sound and Jason got to work on his first creation while glasses of champagne were passed around. This was exactly the tone for the whole cruise, a relaxed experience with good food, good company, good crew, and good experiences. As everyone got to know each other a little better, the Tutoko went straight for the entrance to the Sound from the 
Tasman Sea, getting there after a lunch of pasta salad. Bottles of wine were opened and by the time the Tutoko made the entrance of the Sound, everyone was warmly acquainted. The Tasman Sea treated us with a colony of Sea Lions and choppy water from which we hastily retreated back to the calm of the Sound. As we broke out the fishing rods, Jason donned scuba gear and went under, reappearing ten minutes later with a bounty of crayfish for dinner. That job done, we got to our ‘duties’, enjoying some fishing off the bow of the Tutoko. Fishing in 50m water, we caught mostly a fish which I cannot remember the name of, well known in New Zealand for its bland flavour and thus not particularly favoured. Jason however, knew better, and enjoys it for its ability to work with other foods without dominating the plate. A blue cod was also caught, and after consulting charts, it was confirmed we were allowed to keep it.The work of the crew never ceased, and while we were enjoying some fishing, Jason kept busy making supper, a multi course treat to delight any connoisseur. A cheese board was laid out for a break from fishing, while a soup was made from scratch, crayfish were cooked and cooled, and vegetables were prepared 
for the main course. Before we got to eating, the Tutoko was anchored in a sheltered bay fed by fresh water from a stream of mountain water. Here we donned our bathing suits and jumped in the brackish water, reasonably warm at 19 degrees. The fresh water stream created a layer of cool fresh water over a surprisingly warmer body of salt water. The nearer to the stream you ventured, the colder and fresher the water. With kayaks we were able to get right up to the stream and I can assure you it was plenty cold, probably around 10 degrees. Frolicking done and appetites renewed, we towelled off and got warm, getting cosy in the overheated lounge with fresh glasses of wine. The lounge was kept warmer than necessary (around 23 degrees) because the warm temperature discourages activity from sand flies, and we were plenty happy to have them discouraged.
for the main course. Before we got to eating, the Tutoko was anchored in a sheltered bay fed by fresh water from a stream of mountain water. Here we donned our bathing suits and jumped in the brackish water, reasonably warm at 19 degrees. The fresh water stream created a layer of cool fresh water over a surprisingly warmer body of salt water. The nearer to the stream you ventured, the colder and fresher the water. With kayaks we were able to get right up to the stream and I can assure you it was plenty cold, probably around 10 degrees. Frolicking done and appetites renewed, we towelled off and got warm, getting cosy in the overheated lounge with fresh glasses of wine. The lounge was kept warmer than necessary (around 23 degrees) because the warm temperature discourages activity from sand flies, and we were plenty happy to have them discouraged.Maori tales joke that sand flies are the gods’ reminder to mortals that beautiful as Aotearoa (New Zealand) may be; it is not heaven. Sand fly bites itch like mosquito bites – for the first few minutes. As one becomes more irritated by them and continues to scratch, the itching increases to almost unbearable levels. Only by covering the area or through intense mental effort – of which I am incapable – can the itching be ignored until it subsides. Unfortunately, 
whereas mosquito bites might stop itching after a few days, sand fly bites continue itching for a week, sometimes as long as a couple weeks for some poor souls. The bites then scab before finally healing, often then scarring depending on how much one enjoyed the temporary relief of scratching. Fortunately, sand flies have poor temperature tolerance, and as the temperature of the lounge hit 23, they gravitated towards the windows, longing for the cooler air outside and distracted from biting. Come 10PM, the temperature outside drops too low for them, and they sleep in a near hibernation state until morning.
whereas mosquito bites might stop itching after a few days, sand fly bites continue itching for a week, sometimes as long as a couple weeks for some poor souls. The bites then scab before finally healing, often then scarring depending on how much one enjoyed the temporary relief of scratching. Fortunately, sand flies have poor temperature tolerance, and as the temperature of the lounge hit 23, they gravitated towards the windows, longing for the cooler air outside and distracted from biting. Come 10PM, the temperature outside drops too low for them, and they sleep in a near hibernation state until morning.In the comfortable cabin we were fed a delicious pumpkin soup and half a crayfish each before taking a break from food. Full, we were astounded when Jason reminded us the crayfish was only the entree and served a wonderful plate of roasted vegetables and the fish we had caught earlier for 
the main course. Despite our best efforts, we had not been able to catch enough, and while we had been enjoying our pumpkin soup, Sean had taken the tender out and gallantly fished some more, bringing back a sizable catch which was able to feed the lot of us. Go Sean! Completely stuffed but all very content, we enjoyed an evening of conversation and drinks before finally heading to bed around 1AM. Accommodation on the Tutoko is familiar for a backpacker, all ten guests sharing one room complete with bunk style beds. The two married couples had double beds while the rest of us enjoyed comfortable single mattresses.
the main course. Despite our best efforts, we had not been able to catch enough, and while we had been enjoying our pumpkin soup, Sean had taken the tender out and gallantly fished some more, bringing back a sizable catch which was able to feed the lot of us. Go Sean! Completely stuffed but all very content, we enjoyed an evening of conversation and drinks before finally heading to bed around 1AM. Accommodation on the Tutoko is familiar for a backpacker, all ten guests sharing one room complete with bunk style beds. The two married couples had double beds while the rest of us enjoyed comfortable single mattresses.There was general consensus the night before that everyone wanted to enjoy a morning swim at 6AM before the Tutoko departed the bay at 6:30. I was, however, the only person to rise for a swim at 5:30. I enjoyed a cup of tea to warm my body and strengthen my resolve against the cold water outside before stepping out of the still warm lounge. My swimsuit was in the – out of bounds – engine room, so my solo swim was in my underwear 
which I stripped down to on the back of the boat. The boat’s thermometer later confirmed the water was in fact still 19 degrees, but at 6AM, with no sunlight breaking through the heavy clouds which themselves treated us to moderate rainfall, it might as well have been 0 degrees and while my body coped with the shock of the water, I made the decision to keep this swim short. I swam all the way around the boat, returning to the back where I promptly (and with a bit of difficulty) got back aboard, jumping into the shower at the stern, letting the hot water warm me back up. There was no sunrise, the rain was pouring, the water was cold, and I was alone; but I think that waking up with a swim in the fiords of New Zealand is something I will always remember. A pity for those who decided to sleep in, something one can enjoy any day on a vacation. The rest of the guests and crew eventually rose and we were soon under way, taking a scenic route back to Deep Cove. The silver li
ning to the clouds which were presently bringing the heavens down upon us was that the waterfalls, dried up from weeks of drought, were once again flowing, making our return journey a completely different experience from the day before. Gone were the clear blue skies and dry mountain sides. Today’s scenery was cloud shrouded mountain peaks accented by streams snaking their way to the Sound below. This was no longer a landscape of graceful, flowing mountains, but a mysterious valley surrounded by undeterminably tall mountains. Frankly, I think the weather was perfect for the cruise and I wouldn’t have wished for clear skies the second day at all. Sighting one particularly large waterfall, Sean took the opportunity to treat us to some fresh water and stuck the prow under the stream, flooding the deck with water. Jason served up a delicious (as if he could manage otherwise) full breakfast including eggs, sausage and toast, and accompanied it with a delicious mushroom in white wine sauce – unexpected for breakfast, but so good my mouth still waters for more.
which I stripped down to on the back of the boat. The boat’s thermometer later confirmed the water was in fact still 19 degrees, but at 6AM, with no sunlight breaking through the heavy clouds which themselves treated us to moderate rainfall, it might as well have been 0 degrees and while my body coped with the shock of the water, I made the decision to keep this swim short. I swam all the way around the boat, returning to the back where I promptly (and with a bit of difficulty) got back aboard, jumping into the shower at the stern, letting the hot water warm me back up. There was no sunrise, the rain was pouring, the water was cold, and I was alone; but I think that waking up with a swim in the fiords of New Zealand is something I will always remember. A pity for those who decided to sleep in, something one can enjoy any day on a vacation. The rest of the guests and crew eventually rose and we were soon under way, taking a scenic route back to Deep Cove. The silver li
ning to the clouds which were presently bringing the heavens down upon us was that the waterfalls, dried up from weeks of drought, were once again flowing, making our return journey a completely different experience from the day before. Gone were the clear blue skies and dry mountain sides. Today’s scenery was cloud shrouded mountain peaks accented by streams snaking their way to the Sound below. This was no longer a landscape of graceful, flowing mountains, but a mysterious valley surrounded by undeterminably tall mountains. Frankly, I think the weather was perfect for the cruise and I wouldn’t have wished for clear skies the second day at all. Sighting one particularly large waterfall, Sean took the opportunity to treat us to some fresh water and stuck the prow under the stream, flooding the deck with water. Jason served up a delicious (as if he could manage otherwise) full breakfast including eggs, sausage and toast, and accompanied it with a delicious mushroom in white wine sauce – unexpected for breakfast, but so good my mouth still waters for more.As all things must, the cruise came to an end as we pulled back in to Deep Cove, I’m sure I was not the only one contemplating the possibility of hijacking the boat and turning us back around for another 
day of cruising; but we disembarked peacefully and boarded a bus ride for the anticlimactic ride back over the Wilmot Pass. The only excitement came from a malfunction in the cargo doors, causing some gear to go tumbling along the roadside but luckily no one’s gear was damaged (lucky, considering two of the bags to go tumbling contained at least $1500 in camera gear). At the power station I said goodbye to Patricia, Ricky and Suzanne (who comes back into my travels later) before boarding a boat back across Lake Manapouri. Here the rest of us said goodbye, going our separate ways on our own travels. For me, Mandy was waiting to take me back to Te Anau where I had one more night before returning to Queenstown. We had a great conversation on the way back to Te Anau and I learned a good deal about the Fiordland Expeditions, a small company for sure but one making a big impact on the touring scene in Doubtful Sound. 
The MV Tutoko is soon to be replaced, and its replacement should be in service not too long after I publish this. A slightly larger boat, the main differences will be the inclusion of an ensuite and private rooms, but the carried load will be below capacity on each sailing, maintaining the company’s dedication to a personal experience on the Sound. The difference between the 70 person ship and the 10 person boat is huge, and as we cruised in the Sound, all the passengers of the Tutoko (all 10 of us) were glad we paid the extra. It wasn’t just a cruise, it was a real experience with the Sound; one where we got to swim in it, fish from it (and later enjoy the fruits of our own fishing), swim in it again in an amazing pre dawn dip – for one of us at least – and get to know the staff who took us out on the amazing journey. We all commented as the skipper of the Fiordland Navigator walked by that probably none of the passengers on his boat got to get to know him, never mind steer the ship itself (as some of the Tutoko guests did). My thanks to Mandy were sincere, and if my writing here seems a tad commercial to any of you, perhaps that’s because it is. But that’s only because I enjoyed my experience on Doubtful Sound so much, it would be a shame for anyone to experience anything less. So if there’s one thing I’m sure of (unlike Captain James Cook when he doubted he could get the wind to sail back out of Doubtful Sound if he entered…), if you can spare the extra money, the payoff is worth it and the experience is invaluable.
day of cruising; but we disembarked peacefully and boarded a bus ride for the anticlimactic ride back over the Wilmot Pass. The only excitement came from a malfunction in the cargo doors, causing some gear to go tumbling along the roadside but luckily no one’s gear was damaged (lucky, considering two of the bags to go tumbling contained at least $1500 in camera gear). At the power station I said goodbye to Patricia, Ricky and Suzanne (who comes back into my travels later) before boarding a boat back across Lake Manapouri. Here the rest of us said goodbye, going our separate ways on our own travels. For me, Mandy was waiting to take me back to Te Anau where I had one more night before returning to Queenstown. We had a great conversation on the way back to Te Anau and I learned a good deal about the Fiordland Expeditions, a small company for sure but one making a big impact on the touring scene in Doubtful Sound. 
The MV Tutoko is soon to be replaced, and its replacement should be in service not too long after I publish this. A slightly larger boat, the main differences will be the inclusion of an ensuite and private rooms, but the carried load will be below capacity on each sailing, maintaining the company’s dedication to a personal experience on the Sound. The difference between the 70 person ship and the 10 person boat is huge, and as we cruised in the Sound, all the passengers of the Tutoko (all 10 of us) were glad we paid the extra. It wasn’t just a cruise, it was a real experience with the Sound; one where we got to swim in it, fish from it (and later enjoy the fruits of our own fishing), swim in it again in an amazing pre dawn dip – for one of us at least – and get to know the staff who took us out on the amazing journey. We all commented as the skipper of the Fiordland Navigator walked by that probably none of the passengers on his boat got to get to know him, never mind steer the ship itself (as some of the Tutoko guests did). My thanks to Mandy were sincere, and if my writing here seems a tad commercial to any of you, perhaps that’s because it is. But that’s only because I enjoyed my experience on Doubtful Sound so much, it would be a shame for anyone to experience anything less. So if there’s one thing I’m sure of (unlike Captain James Cook when he doubted he could get the wind to sail back out of Doubtful Sound if he entered…), if you can spare the extra money, the payoff is worth it and the experience is invaluable.I spent the afternoon and evening at the Olive Tree Cafe in Te Anau, enjoying coffee and snacks then supper while getting some serious blog work done, finally catching up to just before the cruise. Of course I’ve fallen behind again, but I have come to appreciate the gap between event and publication. The time between has allowed me room for consideration, and I have found my immediate reactions differing sometimes drastically from my later conclusions. My stop in Omarama at the time seemed terrible for example, but I made the most of it, enjoyed the quiet time to write, and now I am confident it was an excellent stop, a large part of my relaxing into a slower pace of travel. I slept well that evening, helped by just over four hours of sleep the night before, knowing that I had done well on my blog, and knowing I would be back to scuba diving soon.
No comments:
Post a Comment