Saturday, March 27, 2010

The City of Sails

I certainly didn’t look forward to leaving New Zealand, in fact, the more I thought about it, the more depressing it was. New Zealand was my welcoming host for almost two months, and now I was leaving, years until my next visit. Of course, the best way to leave a good friend is on a good note, so I was going to make the most of my time in Auckland, a city where fun is apparently hard to find. Making the most, however, doesn’t mean getting up early, and I furthered my lazy streak by getting up around 10 – I’m am on vacation aren’t I? After a full breakfast at a nearby cafe, I explored the city and quickly realised why people were underwhelmed by Auckland’s exterior: Auckland is just another city. Surprise! Of course, it’s not what’s on the exterior that matters and I set up at the library to enjoy their free internet and discover what was going on under the surface. As it turned out, a lot was going on and I eagerly recorded every possibility in the city to plan my next days. Walking to the nearby Town Hall, I purchased tickets for a concert then wandered downtown to pick up some groceries in effort to reduce my food bills. Of course, making your own food is always cheaper than eating out unless you are in a hostel with some seriously good food deals; rare, but it happens. In this case, $30NZD meant dinner for four nights, sandwiches for four days, and bread for breakfast if I ever get up that early. This evening I made a large pot of spaghetti sauce with fresh veggies and ground beef, making enough for four nights and putting the leftovers in the fridge, a time efficient method of cooking, only requiring me to cook some noodles each evening. Sound obvious? Apparently not to around a dozen people who marvelled over the The Auckland Philharmonic Orchestra warm up and get ready to perform in Auckland's Town Hall (click to enlarge) next four nights at the idea of making too much and putting it in the fridge for later... yikes. Getting dressed in the best clothes I could manage (‘backpacker’ best is a little different from my ‘at home’ best) I headed off for the concert at the nearby Town Hall. The Auckland Philharmonic Orchestra was presenting Pictures at an Exhibition for their opening performance of the season. I personally had not heard much about the APO, but they performed a terrific set and their yearly programme was impressive to say the least, a wonderful selection of pieces in various venues, for various age groups.

One of Auckland’s distinguishing features is its diversity. Myself coming from a country that prides itself on its multiculturalism, I was quite impressed with the figures Auckland touts proudly. With a strong Maori population, around 20%, the city is strong in New Zealand’s roots. Auckland is also home to the largest Polynesian population outside of Polynesia, a population that is not segregated in one part of the city but spread throughout. There are also major populations of Chinese, Japanese, Korean, and Vietnamese amongst other Asian countries. It should come as no surprise then that the Chinese New Year, an occasion specific to the Chinese but celebrated by many people worldwide and throughout Asia, is a big deal here. While it is the Chinese New Year, Auckland involves the whole Asian community in what is one of the world’s biggest multicultural festivals, the Auckland Chinese Lantern Festival. Drawing over two hundred thousand visitors in 2009, the 2010 festival was expected to be equally as impressive. After a day of blogging at the hostel, I made my way down to the festival with a couple of new acquaintances. China, in specific, Shanghai, is responsible for the majority of the lanterns These lanterns bring new meaning to my interpretation of a 'lantern'.  This lantern was donated to Auckland by Shanghai as Auckland's official lantern (click to enlarge) at the festival, impressive show pieces made of nothing more than bamboo, coloured silk and lit by regular light bulbs. Before night when the lanterns came into their element however, the daylight was used for martial art demonstrations from the various Asian nationalities in attendance. The festival was later opened by the New Zealand Prime Minister, John Key, and attended by many politicians and prominent businessmen/women. Everyone had to have their 15 minutes, and all of the politicians made a point of thanking everyone they could think of, making for ages of boring drivel. There was food by the cart load from every Asian group for dinner and dessert and I personally went for the sweet side, enjoying a couple ice cream dishes.

On the 28th, I decided to take a daytrip out of the city, and with my new Swiss friend, Sonja, boarded a ferry to Mt Rangitoto. The entire region has been volcanic at some point, and the dormant Mt Rangitoto in Auckland’s harbour is reminder of the area’s origins. Day tours of the harbour are also available with a brief moment on the island, but for anyone interested in exploring the volcano, a ferry pass is recommended. The island is covered with walking paths, ranging from easy roads to challenging treks through Looking across the shore of Mt Rangitoto Island at Auckland (click to enlarge) the woods. I found the landscape quite foreign as the ubiquitous black rock dominated the landscape, sometimes interrupted by the occasional foliage, often covered with lush forest. The tracks offer stunning view of the surrounds, whether of Auckland, the neighbouring island or the sight of hundreds of nearby sailboats under sail. Auckland is the city of sail, home to hundreds of thousands of moored sailboats and the start or finish line to multiple sail races. If the sun gets to you on the hot black rock, an intricate network of subterranean tunnels provides an escape so long as you’ve remembered your flashlight for the pitch black journeys. The island holds a unique military history; having hosted military installations as far back as the late 1800’s when New Zealand was worried about Russian invasion. More recently the island was home to the Controlled Mine Base from where sea mines were deployed to protect the harbour from foreign navies in both world wars. Little of the buildings remain after an 80’s demolition plan, but the foundations offer a glimpse into what it might have been like here 60+ years ago. It was here I ran into a group from Scouts New Zealand on their own day hike. I had a great chat with their leaders and discovered that Scouting in New Zealand is active, and well attended. I got some contact information and promised to keep in touch, especially if I ever come back Auckland and Auckland's harbour from the summit of Mt Rangitoto.  The harbour is filled with sailboats and other watercraft in typical Auckland fashion (click to enlarge) to New Zealand. He reminded me that Scouting is a large network, and no matter where you go there are always Scouts willing to help out – after all, it helps towards your one good turn every day! For anyone who doesn’t know me, I’ve spent a good part of my life in Scouts Canada, participating from around 5-13 and leading for a couple years after that – and a good part of my life it was. I shan’t digress too much, but my time in Scouts taught me many of the skills I would use later in life, whether while camping, in the military, or just the good values which are important for everyday life. The survival skills not only teach young boys – and in many countries, girls as well – self sufficiency, but impart a strong self confidence which will help them to mature. Scouts (more specifically, Beavers, Cubs, and then Scouts) was an important part of my growing up, and I encourage participation. Mt Rangitoto was a wonderful day trip out of Auckland, and while both Sonja and I were quite happy to get off our feet after 25km of walking, we had thoroughly enjoyed our time on the trail. For the lazier traveller, there are road trains which pick up from the ferry and take visitors on a loop of the island and even near the summit; but the trail was not difficult and for anyone with mild physical ability the climb is rewarding and not terribly physically demanding.

My final full day in Auckland was spent exploring the further reaches of the city. Setting off with Sonja and our new Dutch friend Megan, we walked south towards Mt Eden, a location I was unaware of but is famous for its views and history. In this part of New Zealand, it shouldn’t be too surprising Auckland as seen from Mt Eden (click to enlarge) to learn that this “Mt” was once a volcano, but today it is a grassy hill which offers spectacular views. We walked the whole way up (not really all that far) and like proper tourists, got our photos. From here we spotted One Tree Hill further in the distance, and after conferring, agreed to walk the distance. Please, no jokes about the name, I’ve heard them all by now. We were semi lost along the way until we spotted the obelisk which crowns the hill, marking a site of historic significance. This was once a Maori Pa, a defensive hill which used European battle tactics to defend One Tree Hill as seen from Mt Eden (click to enlarge) against the European threat and enemy Maori tribes. At the base of One Tree Hill is a large park with plenty of space for weekend tomfoolery with the usual free barbeques. We enjoyed a stroll through here before starting our way back. We only then realised how far we had come and how far we had to get back, but we decided against the bus and set off anyway. By the time we returned to our hostel we had walked a good 18km, not bad considering it was stifling hot city walking and we had set out in flip-flops in anticipation of a short walk.

After a Skype call home with birthday wishes for my mom (happy birthday Mom!) and the usual dinner, I was off to the IMAX Theatre at nearby Sky Cinema. Again joined by Megan and Sonja, we were in for a treat, the 3D IMAX presentation of Avatar. Wow, what a film! I know that some people claim there is no storyline, that it is only special for its effects, but I quite enjoyed the storyline – even if it was a bit unoriginal. But it is the effects that make Avatar special, and with the massive screen and characters you can almost touch in 3D, it was an amazing experience. Well done Mr Cameron.

Unfortunately, this was the end of my time in New Zealand. All that was left was a bus ride to and short wait in, the Auckland airport before heading to Australia. More adventures await in Australia, but New Zealand was a special destination along my journey. There is just so much to love about New Zealand that I couldn’t possibly fit it into one of my posts, so read the rest of my New Zealand posts to understand what I mean. But some stand The Auckland Skytower and a residential building stand out on the skyline from the Lantern Festival at dusk (click to enlarge) outs are the amicable people, spectacular scenery, ease of travelling, catering for backpackers, lack of dangerous creatures, lush environments, and the list just goes on! I know already I will return to New Zealand. I will revisit some of the places I enjoyed most, check in on some of the places that were on the path to great things during my visit, and I will explore new things. Looking back on my time in New Zealand, I can hardly believe I spent almost two whole months, 53 days in total, because it passed so quickly and without worry. For the prepared traveller, there is nothing to worry about in New Zealand. Accommodation will never be a problem for one with a tent, towns spaced across both islands ensure no one will ever go hungry, and the locals are sure to provide the camaraderie desired by the lonely traveller. My parents and I have both come to the same conclusion regarding New Zealand while backpacking: of all the countries in the world, except Canada, I would most like to live in New Zealand. It has it all, and if it weren’t for my strong connections to Canada, it would have me too.

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