Waking up on the 27th of November, I was in the lovely Antwerp Backpackers Hostel, but unfortunately I was up too late for my bus; a mistake which cost me €19. I blame it on the other guests who kept me up late, but it was as much my fault for booking a bus that departed at 7am. Honestly, relying on my digital watch alarm, I should know better. There is just no way I can wake up without decent sleep to such a tiny alarm. After going to the Eurolines office and pleading my case as the poor backpacker (getting nowhere in the process), I went to the train station and took off for Dusseldorf by train. It cost me another €47, but it got me there quickly, and meant I could get across two borders without hitchhiking in the inclement weather still hanging around from before.
I arrived in Köln (that’s Cologne) Hauptbahnhof (Central Station) by fast train, and took a cramped regional train north to Dusseldorf. I had never intended to go to Dusseldorf, but as it worked out, there was no hostel availability on a Friday night in Cologne, a slightly more popular weekend destination than Dusseldorf. I found my way to the comfortable Dusseldorf Backpackers and got settled in, figuring out what to do in the city. The hostel was nothing special, a comfortable place filled with interesting people from around the world. The price was above average at €22.40/night, but it was nice to have found budget accommodation at all. Already night and feeling a bit hungry, I decided to explore the Christmas market I kept hearing about, hoping for some tasty treats (and maybe some supper too).
I had seen a Christmas market being set up in Kiel, but this was three weeks later, and this Christmas market was in full swing! I was immersed in a child’s wonderland of Christmas lights and savoury aromas. I meandered, not a care for which direction I might be travelling, lost in the 
Disney like quality of it all. Children laughed gaily on the merry-go-round, adults traded tales and jokes over a glass of steaming gluvine (spiced, hot wine), and youth watched in wonder as craft makers showcased their trades, producing their wares on location. I bought a pretzel filled with ham and cheese and explored; probably for an hour, but honestly, I lost track. This was my first experience with German Christmas markets, and I suspected that much of the rest of my time in Germany would be occupied with exploring these seasonal delights. Full, and extremely happy, I returned to the hostel for a late night of getting in touch with people before turning in for a long night of uninterrupted sleep. Actually, the night was quite interrupted. At around 6am, four of my roommates had to leave, and created quite the racket. Luckily, I have the newfound ability to sleep through absolutely anything, and after acknowledging what was happening I was back to sleep. I have discovered this ability is quite useful and have put it to good use since as well. Of course, my mom would probably argue I have always had the ability to sleep through anything, especially if it sounds like an alarm clock.
Disney like quality of it all. Children laughed gaily on the merry-go-round, adults traded tales and jokes over a glass of steaming gluvine (spiced, hot wine), and youth watched in wonder as craft makers showcased their trades, producing their wares on location. I bought a pretzel filled with ham and cheese and explored; probably for an hour, but honestly, I lost track. This was my first experience with German Christmas markets, and I suspected that much of the rest of my time in Germany would be occupied with exploring these seasonal delights. Full, and extremely happy, I returned to the hostel for a late night of getting in touch with people before turning in for a long night of uninterrupted sleep. Actually, the night was quite interrupted. At around 6am, four of my roommates had to leave, and created quite the racket. Luckily, I have the newfound ability to sleep through absolutely anything, and after acknowledging what was happening I was back to sleep. I have discovered this ability is quite useful and have put it to good use since as well. Of course, my mom would probably argue I have always had the ability to sleep through anything, especially if it sounds like an alarm clock.The next day I had some proper sightseeing in mind. Unfortunately, Mother Nature had other ideas. I made it to the Rheinturm Düsseldorf (Dusseldorf Rhine Tower) unscathed, but once inside, the heavens opened. Paying €3.50 to take the elevator to the 170m observation deck, I was very content in the tower, snickering at those far below getting rained on. There was a small lull in the rain as I left, but it was only temporary and by the time I got to my hostel I was thoroughly wet. Hanging around the hostel all afternoon while riding out the storm, 
I met some other travellers (a Frenchman and an Aussie) and we decided if the rain let up, we would go “downtown” for some drinks. I am careful with my use of “downtown” in respect to Dusseldorf because as far as night activity goes, everything is focused around the old city which is the current host of the Christmas market. Of course, a bumping night scene and a fantasy land market don’t go well together and as we made it downtown in a light drizzle, we wandered hopelessly for over an hour trying to find a bar catering to a younger crowd. Bar after bar was completely packed, and not a soul to be found under 30. It became desperate enough that I even gave my consent to visit a night club. Now, anyone who knows me knows how thoroughly I dislike nightclubs, but in this desperate search for youth, I was willing to go anywhere! The one nightclub we managed to find was guarded by a massive bouncer who didn’t seem willing to let anyone in. Rejected, we watched at least 10 others sporting various degrees of spiffy clothing getting rejected. The Frenchman and I decided it was a lost cause and went back to the hostel, but the Aussie quested on.
I met some other travellers (a Frenchman and an Aussie) and we decided if the rain let up, we would go “downtown” for some drinks. I am careful with my use of “downtown” in respect to Dusseldorf because as far as night activity goes, everything is focused around the old city which is the current host of the Christmas market. Of course, a bumping night scene and a fantasy land market don’t go well together and as we made it downtown in a light drizzle, we wandered hopelessly for over an hour trying to find a bar catering to a younger crowd. Bar after bar was completely packed, and not a soul to be found under 30. It became desperate enough that I even gave my consent to visit a night club. Now, anyone who knows me knows how thoroughly I dislike nightclubs, but in this desperate search for youth, I was willing to go anywhere! The one nightclub we managed to find was guarded by a massive bouncer who didn’t seem willing to let anyone in. Rejected, we watched at least 10 others sporting various degrees of spiffy clothing getting rejected. The Frenchman and I decided it was a lost cause and went back to the hostel, but the Aussie quested on.Sunday now, I checked out of the hostel and took the regional train to Cologne. I was instantly wowed as I stepped out of the train station. Situated in the city centre, Köln Haubtbahnhof is opens onto a large plaza, bordered by the Cologne Cathedral and other impressive buildings. As impressive as that first impression is, and while a Colognian (no clue on the demonym here) would glare at me evilly for uttering it, Cologne is like a bigger Dusseldorf, and a Dusseldorfian wouldn’t be happy to hear that either! Geographically very close, the people of both cities are much alike and the cities share the same metropolitan atmosphere, each sporting a similar old city centre. I stayed at another Meininger Hotel and Hostel, like the one in Hamburg, picking it for its free WiFi and because I 
knew the chain already and had had a good experience in the past. The hostel turned out to be pretty good, except that the only place to hang out while using the WiFi was in the bar which was a smoking environment. I figured as long as the windows stayed open things would be ok. I set off exploring the city, and was amazed at the number of Christmas markets Cologne puts on. There are seven markets in total, 4-5 being free. There are a couple themed markets – one medieval and one a wonderland theme – and there is one market which takes place on a boat, which you have to pay for. There was more than enough to see just wandering the free markets, and I spent the afternoon doing just that. It surprised me how quickly it became dark. The benefit to me has been earlier sunsets, and anyone keeping tabs on my photos knows I love taking photos in the sunset and late dusk period. As I wandered the streets of Cologne, I found myself stopping more often to hear the delightful sounds of street performers. These are not the homeless who strum a one stringed guitar or the emerging indie artists who howl their lungs out while mindlessly strumming the same chord. The performers came in groups, from duets, to quintets. There were accordions with clarinets and violins, tuba bands, even a guy with a grand piano in the middle of the pedestrian street! These people weren’t playing while avoiding the police, no; these people are a fixture of the city. The city depends on them for setting the ambiance and putting people in a jovial mood. A tourist in the Christmas after hearing a talented street performer playing carols will feel like doing something Christmas-y, and what’s more Christmas-y than buying things like a good consumer whore (and how!). And thus the wheels of the city’s economy turn. I briefly ducked into the world famous Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathedral) which took 632 years (with interruptions) to complete, and decided
it was much like many other churches inside. The exterior however, is extremely impressive and I stared in wonder at the intricate details. As with Dusseldorf, I spent most my time wandering the Christmas markets, looking at all the shiny things to buy, but buying none of them. I finished my evening with a banana and Nutella crepe (it’s delicious and it’s healthy!) before heading back to the hostel for some internet time. Remember how I mentioned the bar would be fine so long as the windows stayed open? Well, things weren’t fine, because the windows didn’t stay opened. Apparently because the hotel is in a slightly residential area, they have to be concerned about noise complains, therefore, the windows must stay closed after 10PM. I mentioned to the night staff that since it was just a few of us in the bar and no one was drinking or even there for the bar, they could turn the music off and open the windows; they failed to see the logic in that. I spent my time on the internet, but smelt thoroughly of smoke by the time I was done.
knew the chain already and had had a good experience in the past. The hostel turned out to be pretty good, except that the only place to hang out while using the WiFi was in the bar which was a smoking environment. I figured as long as the windows stayed open things would be ok. I set off exploring the city, and was amazed at the number of Christmas markets Cologne puts on. There are seven markets in total, 4-5 being free. There are a couple themed markets – one medieval and one a wonderland theme – and there is one market which takes place on a boat, which you have to pay for. There was more than enough to see just wandering the free markets, and I spent the afternoon doing just that. It surprised me how quickly it became dark. The benefit to me has been earlier sunsets, and anyone keeping tabs on my photos knows I love taking photos in the sunset and late dusk period. As I wandered the streets of Cologne, I found myself stopping more often to hear the delightful sounds of street performers. These are not the homeless who strum a one stringed guitar or the emerging indie artists who howl their lungs out while mindlessly strumming the same chord. The performers came in groups, from duets, to quintets. There were accordions with clarinets and violins, tuba bands, even a guy with a grand piano in the middle of the pedestrian street! These people weren’t playing while avoiding the police, no; these people are a fixture of the city. The city depends on them for setting the ambiance and putting people in a jovial mood. A tourist in the Christmas after hearing a talented street performer playing carols will feel like doing something Christmas-y, and what’s more Christmas-y than buying things like a good consumer whore (and how!). And thus the wheels of the city’s economy turn. I briefly ducked into the world famous Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathedral) which took 632 years (with interruptions) to complete, and decided
it was much like many other churches inside. The exterior however, is extremely impressive and I stared in wonder at the intricate details. As with Dusseldorf, I spent most my time wandering the Christmas markets, looking at all the shiny things to buy, but buying none of them. I finished my evening with a banana and Nutella crepe (it’s delicious and it’s healthy!) before heading back to the hostel for some internet time. Remember how I mentioned the bar would be fine so long as the windows stayed open? Well, things weren’t fine, because the windows didn’t stay opened. Apparently because the hotel is in a slightly residential area, they have to be concerned about noise complains, therefore, the windows must stay closed after 10PM. I mentioned to the night staff that since it was just a few of us in the bar and no one was drinking or even there for the bar, they could turn the music off and open the windows; they failed to see the logic in that. I spent my time on the internet, but smelt thoroughly of smoke by the time I was done.This is not the first time I’ve had my run in with smoke. Noooo siree! The UK was alright for smoke because while a lot of people do smoke in the UK, it is banned in public establishments and people show a general degree of respect on the street. Same goes for Denmark and the Netherlands. The North of Germany tends to be pretty anal about smoking as well, but you do get smoke blown in your face outdoors more often. Belgium is late to adopt European standards regarding smoking 
indoors and still allows it in many establishments while trying to refine an infinitely confusing set of rules regarding which venues are allowed to permit smoking, and which are not. It was in Antwerp that I first felt sick from second hand smoke, walking along a crowded sidewalk and coming out the other side of the crowd gagging from the smoke. Here in the Rhineland, the smoking laws and customs were more Belgian than Prussian, and it was not uncommon to find bars smoker friendly. It was not until Italy however that I would truly appreciate the benefits of strict Nova Scotian smoking laws.
indoors and still allows it in many establishments while trying to refine an infinitely confusing set of rules regarding which venues are allowed to permit smoking, and which are not. It was in Antwerp that I first felt sick from second hand smoke, walking along a crowded sidewalk and coming out the other side of the crowd gagging from the smoke. Here in the Rhineland, the smoking laws and customs were more Belgian than Prussian, and it was not uncommon to find bars smoker friendly. It was not until Italy however that I would truly appreciate the benefits of strict Nova Scotian smoking laws.Monday I was ready to do some touristy sightseeing of Cologne, and this time the weather cooperated. I hopped aboard a sightseeing bus and was delighted to find that while the live tour guide was working in two languages, he was constantly talking and I felt I got a good deal of information on Cologne. The bus worked its way through the downtown area (no small feat considering the pedestrian traffic from the markets) and went quite far abroad as well. This was one sightseeing bus I got off of feeling like I had definitely gotten my money’s worth. As it crept later in the afternoon (it was a late start that morning) I avoided the cold by visiting the most amazing store I have ever been in. Remember when I was amazed with Globetrotter in Hamburg, where I hung out waiting for my bus to Amsterdam? It’s a chain in Germany, and the biggest location is in Cologne. I headed there, and the moment I stepped in the doorway, I knew I was in heaven. Four storeys tall plus a basement, Globetrotter Cologne has 7000 square metres of retail
space, a climate chamber for testing cold weather gear, and a pool big enough to test canoes and deep enough to test scuba gear – 4.5m at it’s deepest. I was there specifically to get a towel to replace the one I left in Ghent, but I couldn’t help but wander around the store for a bit. I could have spent all evening there, heck, close up shop, lock me in, and I could stay the whole night! The store was architecturally fascinating; a centre atrium featuring the pool in the basement, with overhanging balconies every floor above. I told the staff at the counter how amazing I thought their store was, and they gave me a free map for the compliment, the kind of map of Cologne they usually sell for a few Euros! It was an amazing store, but I knew I shouldn’t spend too much time there lest I actually start buying things.
space, a climate chamber for testing cold weather gear, and a pool big enough to test canoes and deep enough to test scuba gear – 4.5m at it’s deepest. I was there specifically to get a towel to replace the one I left in Ghent, but I couldn’t help but wander around the store for a bit. I could have spent all evening there, heck, close up shop, lock me in, and I could stay the whole night! The store was architecturally fascinating; a centre atrium featuring the pool in the basement, with overhanging balconies every floor above. I told the staff at the counter how amazing I thought their store was, and they gave me a free map for the compliment, the kind of map of Cologne they usually sell for a few Euros! It was an amazing store, but I knew I shouldn’t spend too much time there lest I actually start buying things.This was my last night in Cologne, and in fact my last night in the Rhineland. After making myself some supper at the hostel, I went back out on the town and saw some more of the street performers and just took in the Christmas atmosphere. The Germans can be a very strict people, but boy do they know how to do a Christmas market! It is common for the locals to do all of their Christmas shopping at these markets, hitting retail stores only for the mainstream goods on their children’s wish lists. I do feel that while I visited, many of the cities’ usual attractions were overshadowed by the markets, and there are probably some impressive and locally important sights I missed out on by gravitating to the Christmas markets. But travelling during this season, calling home and hearing of the parties and dinners I would usually attend, I think this was exactly what I needed. I missed out on the traditions I hold on to at home but I got to experience another culture where Christmas is an important part of the year; where people put a bit of effort into their outward expression of holiday cheer. I had heard that the Christmas markets in Bavaria were quite impressive as well, and I was excited to find out for myself. Next stop, the party city – Munich.
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