If breathtaking scenery and landscapes are the real New Zealand, I was in for a magnificent start in this wonderful country. I was getting out of the city on the 11th, hopefully getting as far as Lake Tekapo to the south west of Christchurch on the highway through the centre of the South Island. Hmmmm, hopefully...what does this mean? Yes; David is back to hitchhiking! I will be hitching my way around New Zealand my entire stay, saving plenty of money to spend on treats (big or little); of which New Zealand has many. My first stop of the day was to a bookstore where I purchased a Lonely Planet guide book to New Zealand, and a Lonely Planet guide book to hikes in New Zealand. Unfortunately, like all books in New Zealand and Australia, they were grossly overpriced by North American standards and each cost me $60NZD, just over $45CAD. I caught a city bus to the edge of the city, and took up my place beside the road. My goal was Lake Tekapo, around 220km from Christchurch, only waited 15 minutes with my sign in hand before I was picked up by a man who worked at a resort at the lake itself. It was a huge stroke of luck but also a sign of many good rides to come.
The ride from Christchurch was stunning and experiencing it with a local was highly beneficial. He was able to point out many features and landmarks, explaining the significance and history. We drove through the mountains to Lake Tekapo where he left me at the iSite – something I would become quite familiar with in the future – before proceeding to the YHA on the lakefront. For only $12NZD I was allowed to set up my new 
tent on the waterfront and use all the indoor amenities; my first introduction to the positive attitude towards tenting in New Zealand. My first impressions of Lake Tekapo were mixed, the amazing scenery offset by heavy fog and light rain. Fortunately, by the time I paid my fees the rain had stopped, and by the time I had set up my tent the fog was starting to lift. Once the view was clearer, I was able to fully appreciate the scenery the lake had to offer. One of many glacial fed lakes on the South Island, the turquoise blue water draws the eye while the backdrop of mountains keeps you staring seemingly for ages. Like glacial lakes in Canada, the water has a turquoise blue and almost milky colour because of tiny suspended rock particles from glacial movement thousands of years ago. A town of barely over 300 people, there is not much to do in the town, but the neighbouring Mount John offers many opportunities for sightseeing. One can climb to the top in a three hour return trip taking you almost straight up one side of the mountain while the other side is a meandering path along the lake side eventually climbing up (or down) a gentle slope. 
For the less able (or less motivated) there are nightly tours by bus to the top where you can visit Canterbury University’s Mt John Observatory, catching a glimpse of the stars through powerful optics on a clear night. Already late afternoon by this time, I opted for the hike, taking the sloping side up the mountain at the top of which I enjoyed ‘supper’ of an OSM bar while taking in the view from my vantage point.
tent on the waterfront and use all the indoor amenities; my first introduction to the positive attitude towards tenting in New Zealand. My first impressions of Lake Tekapo were mixed, the amazing scenery offset by heavy fog and light rain. Fortunately, by the time I paid my fees the rain had stopped, and by the time I had set up my tent the fog was starting to lift. Once the view was clearer, I was able to fully appreciate the scenery the lake had to offer. One of many glacial fed lakes on the South Island, the turquoise blue water draws the eye while the backdrop of mountains keeps you staring seemingly for ages. Like glacial lakes in Canada, the water has a turquoise blue and almost milky colour because of tiny suspended rock particles from glacial movement thousands of years ago. A town of barely over 300 people, there is not much to do in the town, but the neighbouring Mount John offers many opportunities for sightseeing. One can climb to the top in a three hour return trip taking you almost straight up one side of the mountain while the other side is a meandering path along the lake side eventually climbing up (or down) a gentle slope. 
For the less able (or less motivated) there are nightly tours by bus to the top where you can visit Canterbury University’s Mt John Observatory, catching a glimpse of the stars through powerful optics on a clear night. Already late afternoon by this time, I opted for the hike, taking the sloping side up the mountain at the top of which I enjoyed ‘supper’ of an OSM bar while taking in the view from my vantage point.Anyone familiar with PowerBars knows that not only are most ‘energy bars’ generally unhealthy, but disgusting and lacking some crucial dietary requirements. The Kiwi solution is the One Square Meal bar. Made from all natural ingredients, two OSM bars = One Square Meal – literally. Two bars contain 1/3 your daily requirement of everything, from calories to carbs, from fat to fibre, not to mention all the vitamins and essential minerals. 
Technically, one can live on nothing but OSM bars, and while it would be a bland existence it would be calorically well measured and nutritionally fulfilling. That they taste pretty good certainly helps their popularity (especially with the chunks of either apricot or cranberry and glue made of honey), and their endorsement by such outdoor legends as Olympic triathlon gold medal winner Hamish Carter gives them a certain authority in the field of sport and ‘on the trail’ healthy eating. I have spent a couple days eating nothing but OSM bars, and while you don’t feel quite full, a little water helps the oats expand some and leaves you feeling satisfied. I have heard that sales will begin soon in the USA and hope they might find their way into the Canadian market as well (that is, unless I’m sick of them by the end of my time here). After enjoying my nutritionally fulfilling meal I descended the steep path on the town side of the mountain. The free map recommends doing things the other way around, a steep ascent followed by a slow walk down the other side and finding my ankles in pain after the quick descent I understood why this was recommended. The continual shock of stepping downhill on a steep grade leaves the ankles a little tender and for the next couple of days I had to take it easy on them. Still quite cloudy at dusk, the sunset was less dramatic than I was hoping for, but I enjoyed some time blogging indoors before spending my first night in my wee one man tent. As it turns out, the tent is perfect for one person around my size with little extra room lengthwise, and just enough room to take a bag full of equipment spread out all around you, creating a cosy nest which I feel quite comfortable in the middle of.
Technically, one can live on nothing but OSM bars, and while it would be a bland existence it would be calorically well measured and nutritionally fulfilling. That they taste pretty good certainly helps their popularity (especially with the chunks of either apricot or cranberry and glue made of honey), and their endorsement by such outdoor legends as Olympic triathlon gold medal winner Hamish Carter gives them a certain authority in the field of sport and ‘on the trail’ healthy eating. I have spent a couple days eating nothing but OSM bars, and while you don’t feel quite full, a little water helps the oats expand some and leaves you feeling satisfied. I have heard that sales will begin soon in the USA and hope they might find their way into the Canadian market as well (that is, unless I’m sick of them by the end of my time here). After enjoying my nutritionally fulfilling meal I descended the steep path on the town side of the mountain. The free map recommends doing things the other way around, a steep ascent followed by a slow walk down the other side and finding my ankles in pain after the quick descent I understood why this was recommended. The continual shock of stepping downhill on a steep grade leaves the ankles a little tender and for the next couple of days I had to take it easy on them. Still quite cloudy at dusk, the sunset was less dramatic than I was hoping for, but I enjoyed some time blogging indoors before spending my first night in my wee one man tent. As it turns out, the tent is perfect for one person around my size with little extra room lengthwise, and just enough room to take a bag full of equipment spread out all around you, creating a cosy nest which I feel quite comfortable in the middle of.I woke early on the 12th and walked a short distance to the iconic Church of the Good Sheppard on the lakefront of Lake Tekapo. Built in 1935 in respect and commemoration to all the sheep farmers who at the time – and to some effect, still – kept the New Zealand economy going, the all 
stone church was built on the shore, respecting the natural surroundings with as little destruction to the surrounding flora as possible. Bushes were only cut back as far as they needed to be and only local stones were used. Large stones in the ground became part of the foundation and the result is a church which feels like it belongs there, like it has always been there. The interdenominational Christian services are run at least weekly and the congregation (non-locals welcomed) is treated to spectacular views of the lake from the window behind the pulpit looking out over the 
lake to the mountains in the distance (no need to snooze in church with a view like that!). I wandered the premises around 7am as recommended in the Lonely Planet guide book and was able to avoid the droves of tourists that show up around 9 by the bus load. 7am on a lake like Tekapo is a wonderful time as such a small town has little nocturnal activity and the town is just waking up around then, treating the early morning tourist to carless roads which lend to an amazing quiet ambiance.
stone church was built on the shore, respecting the natural surroundings with as little destruction to the surrounding flora as possible. Bushes were only cut back as far as they needed to be and only local stones were used. Large stones in the ground became part of the foundation and the result is a church which feels like it belongs there, like it has always been there. The interdenominational Christian services are run at least weekly and the congregation (non-locals welcomed) is treated to spectacular views of the lake from the window behind the pulpit looking out over the 
lake to the mountains in the distance (no need to snooze in church with a view like that!). I wandered the premises around 7am as recommended in the Lonely Planet guide book and was able to avoid the droves of tourists that show up around 9 by the bus load. 7am on a lake like Tekapo is a wonderful time as such a small town has little nocturnal activity and the town is just waking up around then, treating the early morning tourist to carless roads which lend to an amazing quiet ambiance.After packing up my tent and gear I wrote out my sign for Mt Cook while still in the hostel and was quickly approached by a young Swiss couple offering me a ride for in the same direction. No money was asked and I gladly threw my gear in the back of their tiny car (already heavily laden with gear) and climbed in with it. If I thought nothing could beat the ride through the mountains to Lake Tekapo, I was delightfully surprised by the ride to Mt Cook. For the last 30km on the ride to Mt Cook, you drive alongside the glacial Lake Pukaki where you gaze in awe at Mt Cook 
which looms at the end of the lake, overshadowing any surrounding peak as it stands the tallest mountain in New Zealand at 3755m. Arriving in the town of Mt Cook or Aoraki (Maori name), you are surrounded by mountains and overwhelmed by the enormity of the scenery. Taking it easy on my tender ankle, I checked into the only hostel in the town (a YHA) at $30/night since no camping was allowed, and enjoyed some time with my feet up. Feeling a little too lazy, I got out and visited the Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre in the Hermitage Hotel/Resort. A national icon, Sir Hillary was the first man in the world to summit Mt Everest, and this along with his later philanthropic work in the Himalayas has made him a source of great national pride (even getting his face on NZ money!). The centre presents the history the area, its exploration and settlement by New Zealanders, and its Maori history and cultural significance. Remember when I was disappointed in Cardiff because the so called Welsh Museum failed to present a distinct reason why Wales is any different from the rest of the UK? That’s not something I expect to run into here.
which looms at the end of the lake, overshadowing any surrounding peak as it stands the tallest mountain in New Zealand at 3755m. Arriving in the town of Mt Cook or Aoraki (Maori name), you are surrounded by mountains and overwhelmed by the enormity of the scenery. Taking it easy on my tender ankle, I checked into the only hostel in the town (a YHA) at $30/night since no camping was allowed, and enjoyed some time with my feet up. Feeling a little too lazy, I got out and visited the Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre in the Hermitage Hotel/Resort. A national icon, Sir Hillary was the first man in the world to summit Mt Everest, and this along with his later philanthropic work in the Himalayas has made him a source of great national pride (even getting his face on NZ money!). The centre presents the history the area, its exploration and settlement by New Zealanders, and its Maori history and cultural significance. Remember when I was disappointed in Cardiff because the so called Welsh Museum failed to present a distinct reason why Wales is any different from the rest of the UK? That’s not something I expect to run into here.Another of the Edmund Hillary Centre’s attractions is its planetarium, offering an intense glimpse into the universe’s wonders and mysteries. Seated all the way back in your chair and looking up into the spherical screen, the show feels 3D and their programming gives wonderful insight
into the stars in the sky, the phenomena of black holes and other astronomical delights. I thoroughly enjoyed the shows, but sitting and watching intense shows works up an appetite and I went to the overpriced but luxurious Old Mountaineer Restaurant for a meal deal from YHA, $30 for an appetiser and main with a glass of beer. It was tasty and thoroughly enjoyed, although the price tag was still a little hefty, just one of the consequences of eating out in a town with two restaurants and under 50 permanent residents. Later in the evening I took a casual two hour round trip walk to Kea Point where I enjoyed the views toward Mt Cook and the nearby glaciers. I found a lovely spot I wished to camp at and decided on asking the Department of Conservation (DOC) the next day about camping there. As the evening wore on I spoke with some of my international roommates before enjoying a solid night of comfortable sleep in what would turn out to be my last real bed for over two weeks.
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